Did anyone notice in my recent posts on pattern sizing that while I mentioned target height ranges for retail sizing that knitting patterns never give you height information?
While discussing pattern fitting and the assumptions inherent in each size range, it came to my attention that petites and tall women are adding or subtracting length in the body of a garment (often at the hem). It is rare to find someone who adjusts anywhere else in a pattern.
As height changes from whatever standard a pattern maker is using, it changes proportionally in all areas of the pattern. That means that length should be added or removed not just in the body but in the armhole as well. If the design has waist definition it means that the torso should be changed above that shaping and not just adjusted at the bottom edge. Most pattern makers put 1/3 of the change into the armhole and 2/3 of the change between the waist and the armhole. If you change the length of the armhole the sleeve will require a corresponding alteration. This unfortunately is where it gets complicated. I'll do a post later on adjusting sleeve caps for set in sleeves.